Specifically, lighthouses in Northwest Tasmania. There are other lighthouses we could comment on – including List (Sylt Island, Germany), Cape of Good Hope (South Africa), The Needles (Isle of Wight, England), Kangaroo Island (South Australia) – but we’ll save those for other potential blog posts. 

Those of you who follow our blog may recall a photo of the lighthouse at the Mersey Bluff Lookout in Devonport being the last sighting of our green plastic bowl. That was a nice sunny but brisk morning during our trip to Tasmania in September 2021.

The next day we drove along the scenic coast road towards Wynyard through Burnie, to the Table Cape Lighthouse. We arrived just after 1:30pm; tours are usually on the half-hour, but they were happy to accommodate us. Probably just pleased to have tourists in these COVID-affected days, and on such a windy, rainy day. Also, our guide was a trainee, so she probably appreciated the practice. Only 70 steps up the spiral staircase – not as many compared to other towers/structures.

Very windy at the top! Around 25 knots (apparently, they close the tours at 30). It was at least temporarily not raining while we did a lap around the top. Somewhat overcast and misty. Excellent views of the tulip farm below – literally next door to the lighthouse – tulips not in bloom for another 2-3 weeks yet, when no doubt it would be quite spectacular.

The following day we were all ready for a day trip on the Tarkine “Wilderness” Drive in the northwest of Tasmania. First stop, petrol, so we knew we had enough – the complete circuit of the Tarkine Drive is approximately 230kms (depending which side trips/lookouts etc you choose to do).

On the A2, we headed west to Marrawah. Very green and lush. Lilies out – clumps here and there. Lots of cows – some milling around together waiting to be milked. Seemed like a bit like English weather? Scenery a bit like the Adelaide Hills. Started the circuit anti-clockwise – more direct to Arthur River, then through the rainforest areas later was the plan. We were soon near the turn-off near Marrawah – “soon” being about 45 minutes of driving in mainly very heavy rain and gusty winds.

First tourist sign “breathtaking coastal scenery” – translates as “saltbush scrub”. First stop: Bluff Hill Point Lighthouse. Not actually on my original short list of things to see that day, but somehow we had developed a “lighthouse” theme. An impromptu right turn and a 3km or so drive up to the lighthouse. On arrival, I noticed a sign saying “Danger, native bees, stay away from lighthouse.”

Jumping out of the hire car, I heard a noise. My initial thought: is that the bees? No, it sounds like water. Hang on, it’s from the hire car, … the tyre … uh oh! That’s air escaping from a tyre! Not good!

Should we change it now or later? Now, in the middle of nowhere with no mobile coverage – but it’s not raining; or try to drive the 3kms back to the road to Arthur River – there might be other traffic, but it might also damage the tyre. We decided to change it first – a good choice in the end, as it was going flat very rapidly. Fortunately, Tom’s experienced at changing tyres! The rain stayed away, and we enjoyed a moment of sunshine.

We left the area at a slow pace of 80kph due to driving with the narrow spare tyre, and a wallaby lazily hopped across the road just in front of us, as if to say “Don’t stress, she’ll be right, mate.”

A quick stop at the Arthur River shop – any local tyre repair place? Nope, didn’t expect one. Drove the short distance, across the one-lane bridge over the Arthur River, to the “Edge of the World.” Once again, the brief time we were at the lookout, the nasty weather held off and it was quite sunny for photos.

Back to the shop for coffee and souvenirs. Decided it was necessary to return to Smithton (the closest major town, 60kms away) via the most direct route due to having the narrow spare tyre on, so time to renege on the idea of completing the Tarkine Drive.

Not a lot of traffic around today – a Sunday, COVID restrictions on tourists, and dismal weather. We annoyed whatever traffic there was, with our “safety car” speed.

First item on the agenda on our return to Smithton was to call Hertz for advice. Talked to P on the general number first, who then called L in Launceston. Advice was to go to Burnie to swap to another vehicle, as it was Sunday, and the workshops were closed. Burnie? Another 67kms? Today? Agreed to talk to Hertz at Burnie to confirm. Rang and talked to C who got K to call us back. A bit convoluted but the solution was to drive to Burnie Airport Depot to swap to another car. Decided we’d better do it straight away rather than wait. No repair shops open near here on a Sunday, and Hertz want to use their own repairers anyway.

So, back on the road, for another hour of slow and steady progress to Burnie Airport at Wynyard. Noted some tulips near Wynyard were already starting to bloom now. The very friendly K waited for us after her lunch break. Were soon heading back to Smithton in a Nissan X-Trail. Not as swish as the previous car, but familiar and comfortable. Heavy rain on the way back to Smithton.

So, the “Ouch” for this lighthouse anecdote was the car. In retrospect, it could have been considerably worse. When we stopped at the lighthouse, the puncture could have been at the bottom of the tyre, and we wouldn’t have heard the hiss of escaping air. We could have been driving further and damaged the tyre/wheel. It could have been raining heavily, as it was for most of that day. No grief from Hertz, so this “Ouch” turned out to be not painful at all, really.